Grand Hotel Fasano Is a Tranquil Getaway on Lake Garda’s Shores
Inside an intimate lakeside hideaway that exudes Italian charm.
Read More
Northern Italy's Lake Garda, perched at the edge of the Dolomites, isn't a hidden gem by any means. It's relatively well-known, but in comparison to Italian summer destinations like Capri, Lake Como, Tuscany and Portofino that are positively teeming with tourists, it's a calmer, more serene alternative.
Lake Garda is for the more low-key jet-setter—the traveler who doesn't care about being in the center of the most Instagrammed getaway, but also prefers to stay somewhat on-grid. Yes, it's still a well-known vacation spot, but Lake Garda has a more casual, laid-back vibe than some of the fussier destinations. Grand Hotel Fasano, situated on the lakefront in the Gardone Riviera, seamlessly embodies that relaxed yet elevated ambiance.
Located on the western shore of Lake Garda, the historic hotel was built as a hunting lodge for the Austrian imperial family in the 1880s; however, Emperor Franz Joseph didn't hold onto the property for too long—by the turn of the 20th century, it was already being transformed into a luxury hotel, with an expansion in order to host the growing number of aristocrats flocking to the destination during the winter season.
While the hotel has undergone several renovations and updates over the years, it retains that classic vintage feel—all old world glamour and neoclassical design. Run by the same family for three generations, it has a decidedly elegant yet intimate atmosphere; one that calls out for guests to cozy up in one of the many charming nooks on a plushly upholstered sofa, taking in the lake views while sipping on an apéritif. Here's what to know about the Italian getaway.
Grand Hotel Fasano: What to Know
Set the scene
Let's get right into the logistics—more specifically, how to actually get to Grand Hotel Fasano. The property, a member of Leading Hotels of the World, is situated at the edge of Dolomites, and its position right in between Venice and Milan means that you have two different airports you could fly into (Milan is probably the most convenient if you're traveling from the U.S.), and also makes Lake Garda an easy add-on if you're planning a longer Italian trip. I traveled via Milan; you can either hop on the train, get out at Desenzano station and then take a car, or just book a private car service directly from the airport to the hotel.
The hotel itself is situated in the midst of a 12,000 square meter park, which is pure magic no matter what time you visit—during the spring, the new blooms bring fresh color to the garden, while in summer, it's a mass of flourishing greenery. Fall offers earth tones with the change of season.
It's worth noting that the hotel isn't that close to any major walking towns. The closest is the town of Gardone Riviera, just a few minutes' drive (or about a 20-minute walk), which includes a few shops, cafes, the Vittoriale degli Italiani museum and botanic gardens. Take the time to explore the region, including a stop at a vineyard or two, and there are a few larger, buzzier towns (Salò is worth a visit), which you can either drive to or, even better, visit by boat—in fact, the best way to see the locale is aboard a boat on the lake.
What are the rooms like?
The property is a genuine Italian boutique hotel experience, with just 86 rooms and suites, all of which are uniquely decorated. There's continuity in the interior scheme throughout; the soft, neutral color palette is primarily composed of ecru, taupe, a hint of chocolate brown and just a dash of blue. The combination of materials adds an unexpected textural element—an upholstered, tufted headboard juxtaposed with contemporary sleek wood accents. The bathrooms are thoroughly modern (at least, in the renovated rooms), and the premium room categories feature freestanding tubs in the impressively large bathroom.
The majority of the rooms have a balcony or terrace and a partial lake view at minimum; it's worth taking the time (and potentially doling out more money) to request one—after all, you didn't come to Lake Garda to soak in vistas of an Italian road. I was in one of the Executive Lake View rooms, and waking up to the sunrise over Lake Garda was a highlight throughout my stay.
How's the food and drink?
To be frank, Gardone Riviera doesn't have the same culinary prowess as some of the other über popular Italian summer destinations, and that's worth noting before you travel there—you're not going to walk out of the hotel and run into a plethora of buzzy eateries. You typically need to take a car or boat to one of the larger towns from the hotel in order to find a higher volume of restaurants (the closest town has a couple cute shops and adorable spots for a cappuccino), but you don't actually have to leave Grand Hotel Fasano to partake in a memorable fine-dining experience.
The hotel's—and, probably, the town's—culinary highlight is the one-Michelin-starred Il Fagiano, led by executive chef Maurizio Bufi. The menu is an amalgamation of northern and southern Italian cuisine; you can order à la carte or partake in the tasting menu. I recommend the latter; it's one of the increasingly rare coursed meals that doesn't leave you feeling stuffed beyond comfort. The menu changes seasonally, but on a spring visit, the celeriac ravioli and a sea bass and fennel dish stood out.
The hotel's dining scene is rounded out with the more casual Magnolia, ideal for an al fresco salad or light pasta, and the seafood-focused Il Pescatore, led by newly appointed executive chef Claudio Santini. If you really want to live your best Italian al fresco life, though, just post up a table at La Terrazza with an Aperol spritz and bar snacks while taking in the sunset over the lake.
For an indoor cocktail, you must stop into Ramas, the hotel's utterly decadent gin-focused bar lounge led by Rama Redzepi. Hidden behind a nondescript door, it's filled with plushly upholstered furnishings and adorned with retro black-and-white images of the hotel— the perfect spot to sit back with an exquisitely concocted amaretto sour.
What about the spa?
The hotel unveiled the updated Aqva Spa last year, where guests can indulge in Sothys treatments (the usual massages, facials, wraps and scrubs), but don't just head back to your room right after you finish the booked service. While it's hard to tell from the main entryway, the light-filled spa is actually quite large, with an impressive indoor pool and rather enticing lounge area near the sauna and Turkish baths. It's especially appealing if you're traveling during the shoulder season, when it's not quite warm enough to sunbathe outside all day, and can laze around while snacking on the array of dried fruits (the mango is top-notch), teas and nuts on offer.
